I always enjoy making a fast and easy design that can be used for a pillow. This would be the perfect gift and takes no time at all to make!
Take a look at the next photo to see how I lined up my fabric on the die. This is the right way to cut to get the correct grain.
I cut strips of fabric about 4″ wide and you can see that there is very little waste.
I usually cut 4 layers at a time. I think the AccuQuilt GO! Baby 3″ finished Half Square Triangle die is my favorite one for basic quilting and was the first one I bought. The corners are dog-eared so it is fast and easy to match your seams.
I couldn’t believe how fast I could make the Half Square Triangles (HST). If you don’t have a GO! Baby you can make 3″ finished size HST’s using another method and still follow the tutorial.
I made quite a few HST’s and changed my mind on what I was going to make so you will see a sunflower fabric instead of the rust print when I am showing how to put the block together. Don’t worry, I’ll have a couple more things to show you using the rest of the HST’s soon.
Now to make the 18″ pillow tutorial
If you would like to rotary cut your pieces, just cut 3 7/8″ squares and cut each one diagonally to get your HST pieces.
- 4 – brown/creme HST blocks
- 4 – green/creme HST blocks
- 8 – rust/creme HST blocks (photo shows the Sunflower print, sorry)
- Arrange the blocks as shown below
Sew the blocks together as shown. Making it in 4 sections works better for me instead of sewing long rows.
Now sew these 2 sections together.
Completed 12″ block in the correct colors.
Add a 3.5-inch strip to each side.
Now we’ll make the feathers.
I cut my fabric just a little bigger than the size of the curved feathers and then cut pieces of Heat & Bond Lite just a hair smaller. Then fuse the Heat & Bond Lite to the wrong side of the fabric.
I want feathers curving in two different directions so I lay one piece of fabric on the die with the Heat & Bond Lite side down and the next fabric piece with the Heat & Bond Lite facing up. Follow the directions on the package for the heating time.
You will need a total of 8 curved feathers with 4 being reversed. It is easier to cut your fabric to fit 3 feathers and have the leftovers for something else.
Again you see very little wasted fabric.
Next, do the same thing and cut 2 strips of the straight feathers. You will only use 4.
Remove the paper backing and fuse your pieces to the pillow top. I overlapped the green feathers just a little.
Now cut a piece of batting and inside backing a little bigger than your block.
NOTE: I am using an old sheet that I pieced for my backing as it will be inside the pillow and not seen. I like a backing because I wash my pillow covers and don’t want to worry about the batting. Save your matching fabric for the actual back of your pillow.
This pillow was made using my 15-91 Singer sewing machine which is 70 years old and only has a straight stitch.
I did a free-motion applique but you can applique your preferred way. I used a dark brown thread to accent the feather pieces.
Next I switched to an ecru thread and stipple quilted my background.
Trim your pillow to a 19-inch square. Then cut 2 pieces of fabric for the pillow back.
- 1 piece 13 x 19
- 1 piece 11 x 19
- Take each piece and fold one 19 inch side over 1/4″, press and fold over 1/4″ again.
- Have a supervisor make sure you do the next step correctly. Simon loves this job!
Have your pillow top lying face up and then lay the 11 x 19 piece face down on your pillow front.
Next put the 13 x 19-inch piece face down on top of the 11 x 19-inch piece. Pin and stitch a 1/2 inch seam around the pillow. Remove pins, trim the corners and turn right side out.